A skeleton or open-heart dial — the kind that lets you watch the movement tick — usually means a price tag well north of $1,000. Bulova's Sutton collection is the exception: full exhibition dials and casebacks, automatic movements, and prices between $375 and $650. We carry ten Sutton pieces, and this guide compares them head to head so you can pick the right case finish, dial, and price point instead of scrolling through a collection page guessing.
What makes the Sutton collection different
Most Bulova watches hide their movement behind a solid caseback. The Sutton collection does the opposite: an open-heart or full-skeleton dial shows the gear train in motion, and a matching exhibition caseback shows the automatic rotor spinning from the back. It's a design normally reserved for watches costing several times more, because skeletonizing a dial and finishing the visible movement parts is genuinely more labor-intensive than building a solid one.
Sutton isn't one watch — it's a family. Case shapes stay consistent (a round, stately silhouette with a coin-edge or fluted bezel on most references), but finish, dial color, strap material, and the amount of dial left open all vary between references. Some pieces show just a window over the balance wheel ("open-heart"); others skeletonize the entire dial. Both styles are represented in what we carry.
Why a skeleton automatic can cost $400 instead of $4,000
The honest answer is the movement. Sutton watches run on Bulova's 8N24 or 8N26 automatic calibers — Miyota-based movements manufactured at large scale, not hand-finished in-house calibers. That's the same category of movement used in Seiko's 4R36 and similar workhorse automatics. A Swiss skeleton watch costing $3,000+ is usually paying for an in-house movement with hand-applied finishing (Côtes de Genève, beveled bridges) visible through the skeletonized dial. The Sutton's movement is functional and reliable, but not decoratively finished to that standard — which is exactly the trade-off that keeps the price where it is.
What you're actually paying the $400-650 for is the case work: cutting and finishing a full exhibition dial, machining a see-through caseback, and keeping the whole thing water-resistant despite two openings in what's normally a sealed case. That's real manufacturing cost, just a different kind than a hand-finished movement.
All 10 Sutton pieces compared
| Reference | Case | Dial | Strap | Style | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 96A187 | Stainless steel | Silver, open-heart | Leather | Men's | $448.39 |
| 97A138 | Gold-tone steel | Silver/gold, open-heart | Leather | Men's | $436.12 |
| 98A165 | Steel, brown/rose gold accents | Silver, open-heart | Leather | Men's | $448.39 |
| 98A283 | Black-tone steel | Black, open-heart | Black leather | Men's | $436.12 |
| 98A304 | Faceted black-tone steel | Silver, open-heart | Leather | Men's | $396.58 |
| 96A208 | Steel, screw-back | Grey, full exhibition | Leather | Men's | $464.75 |
| 97A169 | Rose gold-tone steel | Grey, full exhibition | Leather | Men's | $436.12 |
| 96B309 | Stainless steel | White, six-hand chronograph | Steel bracelet | Men's | $387.03 |
| 97A133 | Rose gold-plated | Cream, full skeleton | Leather | Men's | $374.76 |
| 97L172 | Gold-tone steel | Pearl, open-heart mandala | Leather | Ladies' | $646.07 |
Choosing a case finish
Every Sutton reference is built on a stainless steel case, but the visible finish varies a lot, and it's the fastest way to narrow ten options down to a shortlist:
- Steel/silver (96A187, 96A208) — the most versatile, goes with any strap color later, reads formal or casual depending on what you pair it with.
- Gold-tone (97A138) — warmer, more formal, most visible against a dark dial.
- Rose gold-tone (97A169, 97A133) — the current dominant trend color in the category, splits the difference between gold's warmth and steel's neutrality.
- Black-tone (98A283, 98A304) — the stealthiest option, hides the mechanical dial's complexity a bit more at a glance, reads more modern than the lighter finishes.
Dial color mostly follows case finish in this lineup — silver/steel cases tend to run silver or grey dials, black-tone cases run black dials. The one place you get a genuine dial choice independent of case color is between open-heart (a window over just the balance wheel, 96A187/97A138/98A165/98A283/98A304) and full exhibition (the whole dial is skeletonized, 96A208/97A169/97A133). Full exhibition shows more of the movement in motion; open-heart is the quieter, more subtle version of the same idea.
Movement: 8N24 vs. 8N26
Both calibers are Miyota-based 21-jewel automatics with a 42-hour power reserve — the difference between them is mostly generational refinement rather than a spec-sheet gap. Both hack and hand-wind. Either one will run reliably for years with normal servicing. If a specific reference's movement matters to you, the product page for each watch lists which caliber it runs; for the purposes of choosing a watch, treat the two as functionally equivalent.
What matters more day to day: take it off Friday night, and by Sunday it will likely have stopped, same as any 42-hour automatic. That's a normal trade-off at this price point, not a flaw specific to Sutton — the same is true of Seiko's 4R36-powered watches, which we cover in our Seiko 5 Sports vs. Prospex guide.
Best men's Sutton picks
Bulova Sutton 96A187
$448.39The most versatile finish in the lineup — steel case, silver open-heart dial, leather strap. If you only want one Sutton, this is the safest starting point.
View 96A187
Bulova Sutton 97A169
$436.12Full exhibition dial rather than open-heart, rose gold-tone case. Shows the most movement of any piece in the lineup at this price.
View 97A169
Bulova Sutton 98A283
$436.12All-black case, dial, and strap. The stealthiest option — reads as a normal black dress watch until the light catches the open-heart window.
View 98A283
Bulova Sutton 97A138
$436.12Gold-tone case against a silver dial — the warmest, most formal option in the open-heart lineup. Pairs best with a brown or black leather strap wardrobe.
View 97A138Skeleton, chronograph, and ladies' picks
Bulova Sutton 97A133
$374.76The lowest price in the collection and a full skeleton dial rather than open-heart. Rose gold-plated case with a cream skeleton face — the best value entry point if budget is the deciding factor.
View 97A133
Bulova Sutton 96B309
$387.03The only bracelet option in the lineup, and a six-hand chronograph layout rather than open-heart. If you want the Sutton design language without a leather strap, this is the one.
View 96B309
Bulova Sutton 97L172 (Ladies')
$646.07The only women's piece in the collection we carry — a pearl open-heart dial with a mandala pattern in a gold-tone case. Highest price in the lineup, and the most detailed dial work of any Sutton reference.
View 97L172
Bulova Sutton 98A304
$396.58A faceted black-tone case gives this one a sharper, more angular look than the other black-tone piece (98A283) — worth comparing side by side if black is your color.
View 98A304Two more worth knowing about
98A165 ($448.39) pairs a steel case with brown and rose gold-tone accents on a silver open-heart dial — a middle ground between the pure steel and pure rose gold options above. 96A208 ($464.75) is the other full-exhibition piece besides the 97A169, in a straight steel screw-back case with a grey dial — the highest price in the men's lineup, reflecting the screw-back construction.
Verdict: which Sutton should you buy?
- Want one watch that goes with everything: the 96A187 at $448.39 — steel case, silver dial, leather strap.
- Want the lowest price and the most dramatic dial: the 97A133 at $374.76 — full skeleton, rose gold-plated case.
- Don't want a leather strap: the 96B309 at $387.03 — the only bracelet option, chronograph layout.
- Want the most formal option: the 97A138 at $436.12 — gold-tone case, dressiest of the group.
- Shopping for a woman: the 97L172 at $646.07 — the only ladies' Sutton piece we carry, and the most detailed dial in the lineup.
Frequently asked questions
What is the Bulova Sutton collection?
Sutton is a line within Bulova's Classic collection featuring open-heart or full-skeleton dials and matching exhibition casebacks, so the automatic movement is visible from both the front and back of the watch. It's a stately, round case design available in several finishes and dial styles.
Why are Bulova Sutton watches so much cheaper than other skeleton watches?
The Sutton runs on Bulova's 8N24 or 8N26 automatic movement, a Miyota-based caliber built at scale rather than a hand-finished in-house movement. Skeleton watches costing several thousand dollars are typically paying for decorative hand-finishing on the movement itself, not just the visible case work. The Sutton's price reflects the case and dial manufacturing without that additional finishing cost.
What's the difference between open-heart and full skeleton dials?
Open-heart dials have a small window, usually over the balance wheel, while the rest of the dial is solid. Full skeleton dials remove most or all of the dial so the entire movement is visible. In this collection, references like 96A187 and 98A283 are open-heart; 96A208, 97A169, and 97A133 are full exhibition.
What movement does the Bulova Sutton use?
Sutton watches run on either the 8N24 or 8N26 automatic caliber, both 21-jewel Miyota-based movements with roughly a 42-hour power reserve. Both hack and hand-wind. The two calibers are functionally similar; check the individual product page for which one a specific reference uses.
Are Bulova Sutton watches water resistant?
Sutton watches carry modest water resistance suitable for splashes and rain, not swimming or diving — the exhibition caseback and open dial construction make them less sealed than a solid-case watch. Treat them as a dress or everyday watch to keep dry rather than a water sport watch.
Is the Bulova Sutton a good first automatic watch?
Yes. It's a reliable, serviceable automatic movement in a design that visibly demonstrates what a mechanical watch is doing, which makes it a good choice for someone curious about automatics who also wants a dressier watch than a typical sport diver.
Does the Bulova Sutton collection have a women's option?
Yes — the 97L172 is a ladies' Sutton piece with a pearl open-heart dial featuring a mandala pattern in a gold-tone case. It's priced higher than the men's references due to its more detailed dial work.
How long does a Bulova Sutton run on a full wind?
Both the 8N24 and 8N26 movements hold roughly 42 hours of power reserve. Worn daily this is rarely an issue; if set aside for a weekend, it will typically need to be reset and rewound.
Prices shown are current Vaiana Express prices at the time of writing and may change. Explore the full Bulova collection, or read our guide to Seiko 5 Sports vs. Prospex if you're comparing automatics across brands.